Inverness
The approach to Inverness on the A9 is quite
dramatic, coming down a long decline above the
town and heading for the Kessock Bridge. To
best appreciate it, pull into the Visitor Information
Centre on the west side of the dual carriageway
where there is an outlook point. Inverness is
the social, cultural, transport and administration
centre for the Highlands, serving a huge area
that includes the Western Islands as well as
communities to the north and east. The first
written references to the town came in the sixth
century with Adamnan's account of the life of
St Columba. He describes, therein, the saint's
visit to King Brude's fortress on his mission
to convert the northern Picts to his religion.
Inver means 'mouth', with the town being established
near the mouth of the River Ness where it meets
the Beauly Firth. There are lovely views looking
from the lower bridges up to the town and its
red-sandstone castle perched on the southern
banks. The original Inverness Castle was the
possible scene of the murder of King Duncan
by Macbeth and stood in the Crown area to the
east of the present Castle Hill. The present
castle, built between 1834 and 1846, contains
the offices of local government and law courts.
Just below the castle is the Tourist Information
Office in Upper Bridge Street, adjacent to the
town's museum, which contains various items
relating to the town's and Highland history
as well as an art gallery.
Most of Inverness's High Street has been pedestrianised
so it is easy to amble through an area mostly
given over to High Street retail shops. There
is little of architectural interest. For indoor-shopping
there is the modern Eastgate Centre and various
supermarkets if you wish to stock up on reasonably
priced groceries before venturing further north
or west.
Inverness caters well to the archetypal tourist
who wishes to trace and identify with their
Scottish ancestors. At the local library in
Farraline Park, beside the bus station, there
is a genealogist-in-residence through the summer
months. He offers an initial, free consultation
to those that wish to discover their Highland
roots. The Clan Tartan Centre at Holm Mills
can also work out which tartan you are entitled
to wear and for a small fee include this and
your clan history on a certificate. After this
you should feel thoroughly Scotified.
Following Church Street, you come to Abertarff
House, one of the oldest buildings in Inverness
dating from 1592 and containing a wonderful
turnpike stairway. It also serves as the Highland
regional headquarters for the National Trust
for Scotland.
Crossing the river by the Ness Bridge and turning
left along the river on Ness Walk, you come
to Eden Court, the most northerly theatre in
the UK, built in 1976 and named after the Bishop
Robert Eden who commissioned the adjacent cathedral
a century before. The main hall has 800 seats
and the building has a variety of uses as a
theatre, conference centre and art gallery.
There is a small restaurant. Nearby St Andrew's
Cathedral, built in 1866 to 1869, has an elaborate
interior with a choir screen and rood cross
by Robert Lorimer, well worth seeing. The font
is a copy of Thorwalden's Font in Copenhagen
Cathedral.
For a pleasant walk you can follow the banks
of the river on either side or cross the Georgian
bridges to Ness Islands which have been turned
into attractive public parks. Also worth seeing
is the northern end of Telford's Caledonian
Canal. Here the Brahan Seer, a sixteenth or
seventeenth century Highland prophet, predicted
the coming of the canal, allowing ships to sail
across Scotland. 'Strange as it may seem to
you this day, a time will come when full-rigged
ships will be seen sailing eastward and westward
by the back of Tomnahurich near Inverness'.
Tomnahurich is the noticeable lump, otherwise
know as the 'Fairy Hill' near to the canal.
The Brahan Seer touched on many other facets
of Highland life that have since come true.
'That the clans will become so effeminate as
to flee from their native country before an
army of sheep' was another poignant premonition.
A popular excursion from Inverness is down
the A82 to Loch Ness as far as Drumnadrochit
and Castle Urquart. There is only a small stretch
of the man-made canal at this end of the loch
where it runs parallel with the River Ness.
The Caledonian Canal stretches from the Beauly
Firth in the north to Loch Eil in the south
linking Loch Lochy, Loch Oich, Loch Ness and
the small Loch Dochfour. Less than half of its
60 miles (97km) are man-made. The rest is a
massive geological fault called the Great Glen
which runs diagonally across Scotland, already
half full of water when Thomas Telford commenced
the canal in 1803. One of the reasons the government
employed Telford to institute his plans was
to give employment to the hundreds of Highlanders
who had poured into the area following the Highland
Clearances. The canal was never the industrial
success that was hoped for and has since been
used mainly for fishing boats or pleasure craft
traversing the Highland interior. But the feat
of digging this gigantic trench through some
of Scotland's most inhospitable countryside
still stands as a monument to the men who made
it.
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